Robata KUURAKU, Mumbai

Fire is the starting point at Robata KUURAKU, where the Japanese tradition of Robatayaki shapes the meal. Seafood, meat and vegetables are cooked over lava stones, taking on a measured smokiness while allowing the natural character of each ingredient to remain intact. The open bar and kitchen places the cooking at the heart of the experience, from the preparation of each skewer to the unhurried work of the grill, while counter seating offers a close view of it all.

The interiors combine natural wood, warm lighting and sakura details, with the sake bar adding a distinct Japanese note to the space. The eighth Indian outpost of the international KUURAKU group, the restaurant is led by Japanese professionals and draws on the group's experience across Japan, Canada, China, Indonesia, Sri Lanka and India. What comes through most clearly is a respect for the fundamentals of Japanese cooking: the quality of an ingredient, the control of heat, the discipline of technique and the pleasure of eating food prepared with care.

Koi, caught mid-movement, across the wall.

The menu stays close to the essence of Japanese cooking, allowing the ingredients and the heat of the robata to do much of the work. Dashimaki Ikura, a Japanese egg roll finished with ikura, is soft, savoury and delicately seasoned, while the Namaage Robatayaki gives tofu a lightly charred surface and a warm, yielding centre. Nasu Goma Miso Yaki takes grilled eggplant in a deeper direction, its smoky flesh meeting a nutty sesame-miso sauce.

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